We can hardly believe it,
but we have already been traveling for a month and have officially moved
on from our first country. It’s difficult to formulate an opinion on Brazil
because we have nothing else to compare it to! Here are some parting thoughts on our time there...
NOTABLE IMPRESSIONS
Unlike the U.S. where
cars pass buses, here, the buses blow past the cars…even on hills. A local once
told us that any of these bus drivers could easily win a Formula 1 race, and
yep, that seems about right.
On women’s bathing
suits: they are as small as you would expect. Whether or not the women deserve to be
wearing something that small needs to be judged on a case-by-case basis. It is tolerable
to be seen in a fuller bottomed bikini, although you’ll immediately be pegged
as a tourist. A one-piece bathing suit is unacceptable.
Brazilians love their
Carnival! Two wonderful examples of this…
Outside of the
Sambadrome in Rio, there are vendors selling jerseys for each samba school – much
like you would buy a jersey for your favorite football or baseball team in the
US.
And when we were in
Salvador on Ash Wednesday, we watched the results for the Rio samba school
competition being announced on TV. It was very reminiscent of the judging for gymnastics
or figure skating at the Olympics. 13 schools, 10 categories and 4 judges per
category are announced. When a school gets awarded a perfect 10, everyone goes
nuts.
FOOD
Our diet has mainly
consisted of rice, beans, meat and fruit. We haven’t seen a vegetable in 3
weeks. Here are some of the different kinds of foods that we’ve encountered:
Feijoada – a bean and
meat stew traditionally eaten on Saturdays. It's always accompanied by white rice, stringy lettuce, a powdery cornmeal and orange slices.
Pasteis Feijao – feijoada stuffed into fried ravioli-shaped pastries. We tried these at
a little restaurant called Bar do Mineiro in the Santa Teresa neighborhood of
Rio. People travel from all over to eat these bite sized morsels at this local’s
gathering spot.
Moqueca – a bubbling
seafood dish served at the table along with rice, beans, yellow cornmeal powder
and shrimp paste.
Acaraje – a
traditional dish in Salvador that was popular with slaves. It’s essentially a
hush puppy cut in half and stuffed with shrimp paste and a tomato tapenade.
Tambaqui – a white fish
from the Amazon region. When we ordered it, it was served with glazed pineapple and herbs.
Picanha – a
particular cut of beef served on a skillet at your table, usually shared. Side note, Brazilians seem to call all cuts of beef “filet mignon”. Do not be fooled.
Rodizio – all you can
eat. There are several different kinds, but our favorite (of course!) was
pizza. We really enjoyed our rodizio pizza night in Santa Teresa while watching
a soccer game on TV.
Churrasco – a rodizio
restaurant where the waiters carry around different cuts of meat on huge
skewers and you choose what you want at your table.
Corazcao – heart. We
were cozied up at a fun pizza place watching a soccer game in Iguazu Falls. We
thought we had ordered a chicken pizza, but we clearly didn’t understand the
language and we ended up with chicken heart pizza. Steve gave it a small
attempt. Katie was too disappointed to even try.
Salgados – in Portuguese
it simply means “salties”, or in other words, anything that is “not sweet”. These are inexpensive
pastries found on nearly every street corner. They are filled with various
things – ground beef, ham and cheese, or chicken are the most common. We loved
them!
Tapioca – this is not
like the pudding in the US. It’s a white powder that is heated up and shaped
into a sweet treat. We tried it two different ways. One time it resembled what
a coconut rice-krispie treat would look like if such a thing existed. The taste was
indescribable but somewhat reminiscent of sweet rice and was served with
condensed milk sprinkled on top…yummm!!! The other time the tapioca was heated
on a flat outdoor grill, a dulce de leche carmel sauce was spread in the
middle, and then it was folded and served like a crepe.
Cocada – a very
sugary, no-bake sort of cookie that was prevalent in Salvador. There are many
different flavors and colors, but we tried the white kind – “Cocada Blanca”.
Fruits – we tried so
many different kinds of fruit, that we lost track of all their names. We do
remember eating a lot of banana, mango, pineapple and guava. With so much fruit in abundance, we happened across a mutant pineapple and banana.
Sucos – fruit juices
served at breakfast and on almost every street corner in Rio. We tried Umbu,
Cupuacu, Acerola, and Cashew. For the record, the Cashew suco was tangy and not
Katie’s favorite.
Acai – we were
already connoisseurs of acai in San Diego, but it was even more fun eating it
in the homeland. It is much sweeter and darker in Brazil. We tried acai several
different ways – the more traditional sorbet with granola in a cup, as a
chutney, and out of a frozen can made into a smoothie. Katie also bought a necklace
made out of dried and dyed acai berries.
Ice Cream – we sampled several
flavors. The Mint Chocolate Chip was so minty that it tasted like we were
eating toothpaste. Condensed Milk was pretty good, but our favorite flavor was
Chantilly. Regardless, when in Brazil, it's probably better to stick with what they do best:
sucos and acai.
Beach Treats –
roasted corn on the cob, popcorn, sugarcane juice, and “cocos” – green coconuts
with a straw to enjoy the cold coconut water inside. After you're done drinking, you break it open so that you can eat the coconut pulp. Breaking open the coco is a funny art-form that we saw accomplished with either a machete or just banging it against the ground until it opens up.
Caipirinha – Brazil’s
quintessential drink. It’s made with a sugarcane rum called cachaca. We visited
a cachaca tasting room while we were in Paraty. It goes down about as smoothly
as drinking any other hard alcohol would. We tried chaiparinas of many
different varieties – lime, pineapple, and kiwi.
Cerveja – beer!
Brazilians love beer. The most common brands are Antartica, Skol, Brahma,
Ipatiava and Schin. They are all very similar to a Coors Light. On a hot day,
you can’t beat it!
One last impression
about Brazilians and their food is that they struggle with portion control just
as much as Americans. Most restaurants categorize their menus by food for 1
person or 2 people. We started out ordering for 2 and quickly learned this was a
mistake.
WILDLIFE
Besides all of the
animals that we saw at Iguacu National Park, we also had several encounters
with…
Monkeys, about the
size of squirrels. Spotted in trees and running along telephone wires.
Lots of mysterious
bugs. Standard mosquitoes loved Katie. Unidentifiable Brazilian bugs, who leave
behind bruises and blood blisters, loved Steve.
15 or so cockroaches and
1 dead rat.
HOSTELS
Our first week in
Rio, we “splurged” on a private room with a shared bathroom. It was a smart decision to ease ourselves into our new lifestyle, but lately we've been trying dorms. In South America, breakfast is included
in the nightly rate for most hostels. Less than half of the showers have had
warm water, but it’s been so blazing hot that taking cold showers has actually
felt good. It’s all relative –
let’s not forget that these are hostels – but our favorites so far have been The Mango Tree (Rio, Impanema) and Biergarten Hostel (Ilhe Grande).
HIGHLIGHTS
- - Basing ourselves out of Ipanema while
in Rio
-
- Being on top of Sugarloaf Mountain at
sunset
-
- Meeting the artist himself, Jorge
Selaron, at the Santa Teresa Steps in Rio
-
- Eating authentic Brazilian acai
-
- The Sambadrome
- - Running along the Copacabana boardwalk at
dusk
-
- Our samba lesson
- Watching samba musicians at Bip Bip in Copacabana
- Watching samba musicians at Bip Bip in Copacabana
-
- Paraty’s beautiful and romantic
cobblestone streets
-
- Ilhe Grande
-
- Our new Carnival abadas and the
camarote in Salvador
-
- Dancing and singing with
friends at the Daniela Mercury bloco at Carnival
-
- Making wishes at the Bonfim church
in Salvador
-
- Escaping the crowds at Iguacu to enjoy
the waterfalls and rainbows by ourselves
-
- Cold beers on hot Brazilian days
LESSONS LEARNED
We would have loved to see a soccer game in Rio, but
unfortunately the schedule of the games never matched up with our social
calendar!
We had the option of going on a tour to the Rochina favela with
their former HOA president. It would have been more authentic (with less annoying
tourists around us), but perhaps more unsafe…who knows. We choose what we
thought would be the safer option, but we still wonder about that one.
We should have gone to Christ the Redeemer on a weekday. We went on a
Sunday and it was just packed with people. Oddly enough, we headed straight to
Sugarloaf after that and it wasn’t as crowded.
When we returned to Rio from Costa Verde, we moved neighborhoods from
Ipanema to Santa Teresa. Santa Teresa is known as an artistic and charming area
of the city with hilly roads and an antique yellow tram. In 2011, however, the
tram derailed killing 5 people, and it hasn’t been in operation since. While
still an interesting neighborhood, it was hard work walking the hills without
the tram in the summer heat. A day trip to that section of the city would
probably have been better than basing ourselves there.
Carnival: Rio or Salvador??? We have asked ourselves this question
many times. It just depends on what kind of experience you’re after. We would
have liked to see parts of Salvador when Carnival was not in full swing. Katie also
loves anything and everything that sparkles, so perhaps Rio would have been
more logical. Even so, we heard that Ipanema – the beach that we so loved
during our time in Rio – became quite unsanitary during Carnival week. It’s a
toss-up. We chose Salvador and we had fun. If we had to do it over again, we would consider going to Rio the week after Carnival instead of the week before – skipping the dress
rehearsal in favor of the Champions Parade at the Sambadrome.
We would have swapped out Trindade for more days on Ilhe Grande. One day
in Paraty is all you need.
We would have done a better job of tucan-spotting at Iguacu.
Bird watching was never really our thing anyway.
A common theme you’ll probably keep hearing from us is that
we only wish we had more time! There are so many amazing places to visit, but
we just couldn’t hit them all. If we had more time in Brazil, we would have liked to
visit: Floronopolis (beach), Ouro Preto (history), Manaus (Amazon).
HOW ARE WE DOING?
We have come a long
way in 4 weeks! Every day is different, but when it comes to packing up our
backpacks, showering or finding directions, we have a routine down.
We were excited to
arrive in Argentina, but a piece of us was also sad to leave Brazil. We knew
zero Portuguese when we arrived there, and we spent 3 weeks trying really hard
to learn the language and the customs. Now that we’re into Spanish-speaking
territory, it will be more comfortable for us, but dang…we were just getting
the hang of it!
Katie has only gone on 3 runs since we left the US, but she doesn’t really miss it. We walk so much
every day that we’re exhausted by the time we get home. Steve has already lost
about 15 pounds.
We have been working really hard on our tans. It’s been tough work, but
it’s starting to pay off. Katie has been asked if she’s Argentinean or Chilean
on multiple occasions. In combination with his new sleeveless shirts and
budding language skills, Steve was looking and feeling more Brazilian every
day…just in time to leave!
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