NOTABLE IMPRESSIONS
Cholas are the older
generation of women who wear traditional clothing – multilayered skirts,
blouses, shawls with fringe, bowler hats, long braids with tassels on the ends,
and brightly colored slings that they use to carry anything and everything.
When we first crossed
the border into Bolivia the Cholas were such a treat to see; however eventually, we
didn’t even flinch when we saw them because they are everywhere. If a women is
dressed in this way, it usually means that she speaks the native Incan language
of Quechua.
They are usually quite
shy and not very talkative with foreigners. Only once in two weeks did we see a
Chola walking or talking with a man. It’s also very rare to see them
interacting with or holding their children. The kids are almost always just
slung around their backs.
An observation about
Bolivian people in general, but in particular Cholas, is that they look older
than they really are. It’s very common to see a Chola, who we would venture to
be a young grandmother, carrying a baby on her back. It took us awhile to
realize that these aren’t the grandmothers….they’re the mothers. We guess that
it must be all of the sun exposure, coupled with their old-fashioned dress, that
gives off this impression. They carry so much on their backs that we've seen elderly Cholas permanently slumped over.
One day during a very
strange episode in the women’s restroom of the La Paz bus station, Katie got to
see the Cholas behind the scenes. Several of them were letting their braids
down and washing their hair in the sinks. It was quite a shock to find out that
they were wearing braid extensions!
Seeing them on TV
never got old.
The younger generation of Bolivian women are much more modern,
which unfortunately means that this wonderful dress will eventually die off. From a visitor’s
perspective, the Cholas of Bolivia are the country’s most obvious symbol. When
we think of Bolivia, they are the first thing that comes to mind. In
Uyuni, we saw a mural with the caption, “There’s no doubt that the strength of
Bolivia is its women”.
Moving on...
The people here are
really small. Case in point:
We’ve seen people
wearing Denver Broncos, San Diego Chargers, Cincinnati Reds and Purdue
Boilermakers clothing. Every time we spot one of these super fans, we go running up to them to let them know that we
have a connection to the team on their shirt. Every time they look at us like
we’re aliens. They have no clue what we’re talking about. We really wonder
where they get this stuff.
Random observation:
they have almost entirely female butchers. Not that it matters, but it just
looked funny at first.
The value scale in
Bolivia is all out of whack. It might cost $5 for a 4-course meal but $4 for a beer. On the other hand, Bolivia’s currency is so devalued that it’s like using Monopoly money. Those are hundreds I’m holding…
The Wiphala is a flag
seen commonly around Bolivia. It’s a brightly colored flag that represents the
people of the Andes and the four former regions of the Inca Empire. We liked
how outside of important government buildings, like the parliament in La Paz,
both the Bolivian and Wiphala flags are flown.
And finally, Bolivia
is obsessed with not having an ocean. In La Paz we kept seeing posters with
huge naval ships and young men dressed in uniforms that are strikingly similar
to American naval uniforms. It wasn’t until we got to Lake Titicaca that it all
made sense. Their navy is for their lake! They have boys, who look no more than
15 years old, in uniform and an intimidating armada of about 3 boats. Hey, the lake is
beautiful so I’m not going to judge.
Go on Bolivian Navy, defend your mighty
seas!
Another sign that
they’re in denial? Our hotel reservation at Lake Titicaca said “ocean view”.
FOOD
Bolivian food is just
as colorful as their clothing. Within our first couple of days, we were able to
eat beets, green beans, corn, carrots, peas, spinach, tomatoes, apples, peaches
and grapes. This was much appreciated coming from Argentina.
A big thing in
Bolivia is the executive lunch menu. This means that a restaurant serves three
or four set courses at a flat rate, which is usually quite inexpensive. There's nothing to order from...you just pick your restaurant based on the set menu
that’s announced on a chalkboard along the street.
Pan Integral – wheat bread!
Not very tasty, but at least it was nice to have the option.
Saltenas – empanadas,
but the dough is different (and better) than the kind we had in Argentina. Or
maybe we’re just sick of empanadas and it’s nice to switch things up a bit.
Trucha and Pejerrey –
trout and king fish, respectively. Specialties of Lake Titicaca.
"Mexican Food" – we had
gone nearly 2.5 months without even a hint of Mexican food. Then out of the blue,
almost every restaurant in Copacabana had some sort of Mexican offering. One
night Katie ordered trout tacos from the lake and Steve ordered chicken nachos.
We had to laugh at Bolivia’s version of “Mexican food”. Both our tacos and
nachos had carrots and green beans. Katie’s tacos were more like a mix between
an enchilada and a burrito. The tortilla chips used in Steve’s nachos were
Doritos. What a brilliant idea! Why serve boring old tortilla chips when you
can kick it up a notch with Doritos? Add this to our list of business
ideas.
Tuna – prickly pear cactus
fruit. You throw the skin away and the inside is the consistency of a kiwi. There are so many seeds that it’s best not
to chew the fruit, but rather to just swallow it with seeds
and all.
Pasancallas – big puffy
popped corn that was sold in massive quantities in Copacabana. You could buy a
bag for 20, 30, 40 or 50 Bolivianos! We saw several people carrying their big
bags of pasancallas into church with them.
Tumbo – a small
oval-shaped fruit that tastes like a sweet passion fruit. Apparently it’s
uncommon, so we enjoyed it in juice form in La Paz as much as possible.
Ice Cream – Canela
(cinnamon), which came highly recommended by a local, but tasted like we were
eating a stick of Big Red chewing gum. Thumbs down.
Floats – outside of
Copacabana’s church on Easter morning, there were women selling Coke Floats.
Instead of ice cream, they use whipped cream. And instead of Coke, our little server
girl inexplicably gave us non-alcoholic beer.
WILDLIFE
Llamas, donkeys,
goats and sheep with tassels in their ears or around their necks.
Vicunas – an
endangered species of llama that is unfortunately hunted for their very soft
fur. They are skinner and smaller than llamas and only live at 3,600-4,500
meters elevation.
Biscacha – a cross between a rabbit and a kangaroo.
Flamingos!
HOSTELS
- La Torre (Tupiza)
- Hostal Sol Andino (La Paz)
- Hotel a la Maison (boutique hotel in La Paz)
- Villa Bonita (Coroico)
- Hotel Utama (Copacabana)
HIGHLIGHTS
- The Cholas of Bolivia
- Salar de Uyuni trip with Gemma and Dave from the UK
- Helping two teenagers with their English homework in Uyuni
- La Paz: good meals, spectacular miradors, Iglesia San
Francisco and shopping the oddities
- Hotel a la Maison in La Paz...the most normal living
situation since the start of our trip
- Mountain biking The Death Road
- Our bungalow in Coroico
- Good
Friday and Easter in Copacabana
LESSONS LEARNED
Everything in Bolivia is so inexpensive – from lodging and
food to activities and clothes. That said, within 12 hours of arriving in
Bolivia, we had already been borderline swindled by our tour company
and hostel. When companies here make mistakes, they fully admit to them, but
they also fully expect you to cover the cost of their errors. It is frustrating
and unsettling, but it’s their culture and there’s not much we could do about
it.
More time: Potosi (mines), Sucre (town), Rurrenabaque
(jungle)
HOW ARE WE DOING?
We needed to get caught up on a bunch of to-do items, so we took some
extra days in La Paz and checked ourselves into a boutique hotel that had at
least decent Internet speed. It was just like old times living in a nicely
furnished apartment! We now have a signed lease for our San Diego condo,
flights for the second half of our trip, and a game plan for the rest of South
America. It was good to recuperate a bit, but we also felt a little stir-crazy after awhile.
We are so immersed in this Spanish thing that we catch ourselves
automatically speaking Spanish to one another.
We’ve spent 3 weeks at 10,000+ feet elevation, so we are feeling ready
and excited for our Machu Picchu hike coming soon!
Steve and Katie..I feel bad having to be the one to tell you this...but Taco Bell now sells a Dorito shelled taco. Your Dorito idea has been taken! Perhaps they visited Bolivia before you did :)
ReplyDeleteOn another note, keep it up. I am loving your posts!