6 hours west of Lake
Titicaca is the Colca Valley, a pre-Incan area that is most widely known for
its canyon and condors. We spent 5 days exploring the many small towns that dot
the valley including Chivay, Coporaque, Yanque and Cabanaconde.
Each town has
the same formula: a main square with a big church and a funky statue, dirt
roads and terrible drainage systems. We know this because it rained the entire
time we were there.
When we weren’t
taking shelter from the rain or huddled around my hairdryer trying to stay
warm, we were able to get out in short stints to do some hiking.
Cabanaconde is
the entry point for hikes into the Colca Canyon and the drive to get there was
amusing. Each time we rolled into a new town along the valley floor, the bus
driver would lay on the horn as if we were a train announcing our approach.
People would come running for the bus, and this provided for some good
people-watching. We noticed that from town to town, the women had a variation
on their colorfully embroidered dress…normally their hats were slightly
different.
The highlight of our
busing around the Colca Valley was when I saw a guy running up to the bus with
a sheep in his arms. He had a lengthy conversation with the driver, they agreed
on something, and the next thing I know the sheep was stuffed into a feed bag
and thrown in the stowage area. The poor little sheep was baahhhhhing the
entire way.
We had read that the
Colca Canyon was nicknamed “The Grand Canyon of South America”.
I guess
technically it is a canyon that is grand that is in South America, but our preconceived
notions were dispelled as soon as we arrived.
The canyon did
provide for a nice and challenging 5-hour rim-river-rim hike. The hike out was a
strenuous 4,000 feet of elevation gain over 3 miles. Our good old friend, RAIN,
greeted us for the last 30 minutes when we were most tired and cranky.
On our journey out of
the valley, we made one last stop at a place called Cruz del Condor. Here we
did something that we promised each other we would never do…bird watching.
Colca Canyon is actually the home of the Andean Condor, and Cruz del Condor is
where they like to catch thermals of warm air rising up from the canyon. These
condors have the largest wingspan (10 feet) of any land bird, and we spent the
morning watching them put on a show. We could spot them from really far away
and watched them get closer and closer until they would soar less than 10 feet
over our heads. They were beautiful.
Our last stop in this
region was to Peru’s second largest city, Arequipa. Arequipa looked like an
absolute dump as we were driving through the suburbs into town, but the city
center did not disappoint. Many of the buildings are made of a white volcanic
rock that is mined from one of the three dormant volcanoes that surround the
city.
Arequipa has a beautiful plaza and a fascinatingly colorful convent with 80 individual homes that make up a small city
within a city.
The best part of Arequipa were the warm and friendly people
that we met. From flash mob practice sessions to serenading musical groups, everyone here seems to be enjoying life to its fullest.
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