We first heard about
Cinque Terre when our friends Maria and Charlie Fox honeymooned here 8 years
ago.
The Cinque Terre is a
set of 5 villages in Northern Italy set along the Mediterranean Sea:
Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare.
Each little town has
its own trademark…one’s got a harbor; one’s on a hilltop; one’s got a beach,
etc. But they all have the same basic necessities: deli, bakery, fruit stand,
gelateria, wine shop, train station, church, school, and cemetery.
I suppose what makes
these towns so famous is their unique (and cleverly-marketed) group name as
well as the 7-mile system of hiking trails which links them all together. We
spent three days hiking, ferrying, training and even kayaking between the
towns.
Besides the fact that
they are smaller and connected by the distinctive trail system, at first Cinque
Terre didn’t feel all that different from the stretch of towns along the Amalfi
Coast. But as we spent more time here, the differences became obvious. More
than anything else, we left the Cinque Terre with the lasting impression of community.
Unlike in the Amalfi
Coast towns, Cinque Terre has absolutely no sign of outside wealth. There are
no cliff-hugging mansions or mega yachts lingering off the shore. There are
only the families who have been living in the same community for generations.
These people live humbly in their colorful little villages with their colorful
wooden fishing boats.
These modest towns
have been through so much lately…landslides, flooding and forest fires. Only 8
months ago Vernazza and Monterosso (towns 4 & 5) were hit with devastating
floods. Monterosso has bounced back, but Vernazza was encased in 13 feet of mud
and debris. Each morning we bought our breakfast from the same charming deli. It's almost unimaginable that this is what the deli looked like the day after the flood subsided.
We stayed in
Vernazza, and it was obvious that they’ve had the hardest time recovering. At first we found it a teensy bit depressing, but after a couple
of days, the spirit of the townspeople completely changed our outlook. Everyone
was working so hard to bring Vernazza back to what it used to be. As soon as we
stepped outside in the morning, we could hear the progress. People were out
plastering, hammering, drilling, and even gathered around as a man repainted
the square’s water fountain. This town was picking itself up and moving
forward.
Cinque Terre is a
slice of Italian life. Old women peer out from behind their window shutters.
Old men play bocce at the town court. A mother gives her son swimming lessons
in the ocean. Keys are left in front doors. Gentlemen play accordions on the
hiking trails. Monks chant from behind the alter screen at a hilltop monastery.
The cemeteries display pictures of missed loved ones. Children come down to the
church courtyard every night for a giggly game of soccer. A man sells
fresh-squeeze lemonade (and lemoncello) from in-between his grape vines. He
knows from the church history books that his vineyard goes back at least 5
generations, but he imagines it’s been even longer. It is community at its
best.
This is one of those magical places that delivers on both nature and culture. If ever the phrase, “This little corner of the world” was appropriate, it would be in Cinque Terre.
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