From
the South Island’s East Coast, we made one last turn towards the mountains into
Mackenzie Country. We had our sights set on New Zealand’s highest peak, Mt. Cook (12,316 feet). We
first saw the top of Mt. Cook from the west when we
visited Franz Josef & Fox Glaciers. It was a whole different scene as we
came at the base of it from the east with baby-blue Lake Pukaki in the foreground.
We
very patiently waited out two days in the rain and snow at Mt. Cook Village so
that we could play in the valleys below this behemoth. We watched some movies in the campervan, we roasted some marshmallows in the village
hotel, and we learned more about New Zealand’s most beloved countryman. Sir Edmond Hillary – who
became the first person in the world to summit Mount Everest in 1953 – trained
on Mount Cook for both his Everest and Antarctic expeditions. We've gotten to see great artifacts of his like his passport, ice axe, crampons, and sunglasses throughout several museums around the country.
Finally the weather was supposed to let up for ONE DAY, so we made plans to
blitz as much
as humanly
possible.
Tasman Glacier is not touristy at all, and yet
it was so much
better than
the
more popular glaciers
on the West Coast. There's more of it to see, the mouth is very prominent, it's
fronted by a milky blue glacial lake, and the lake has icebergs!
Hooker Valley is an awesome little hike with Mt. Cook reigning over.
But whoa, we did
not sign up for snow!
Steve was finally able to reel in an iceberg, and on the way back down, we even saw an avalanche on Mt. Sefton.
On our drive out of the Mt. Cook area, we got to spend some time around Lake
Tekapo. Seeing blue glacial
water like this just never gets
old!
Further north along
the Southern
Alps, people spend a lot of money to take a scenic train ride over Arthur's Pass
and down into the West Coast. The train tracks follow the road,
so we decided to drive it. Maybe if you had never seen a mountain before
this would be something special, but we thought it was just pretty normal. Good
thing there
are some nice stops along the way…
At Castle Hill there's a lot of rock
climbing, but you could also play the all-time coolest game of hide-and-go-seek.
Cave Stream
is where you can wade upstream through
an underground river.
Unlike in Clifden, this is known to be a fairly
non-technical cave, but we had
two things
working against us. First, the DOC (Department of
Conservation) is pretty clear that this cave should only be attempted when the
water in the first pool is no more than waist-high. Well,
it was definitely waist-high on Steve and more like abdomen-high on me. High water means the
river is rushing,
which
means our non-technical cave just got
a whole lot scarier.
Also it's springtime, and so that's not just any water. It's glacial run-off.
We spent 55 minutes submerged in
knee to waist-high water that is only slightly above freezing. It was probably the dumbest decision that we made in New Zealand. Steve had a great
time, but I think I'm not cut out for caving. The worry of getting trapped underground
just scares me too much. I'm hanging my caving shoes up for awhile.
There were other
things
to see along Arthur's Pass, but we never made it to them. We camped 6 kilometers from the top of the
pass, and the next morning we woke up to a full-on spring snow storm.
We retreated to our final stop, Christchurch. I can remember the first time I had ever heard of Christchurch. It was on the news two years ago when they got hit with a 7.1 earthquake. That was September 2010, and the year that followed dealt them somewhere around 2,500 aftershocks. The aftershocks of February 2011 (185 people died) and December 2011 have collectively devastated the city. This is their downtown.
This is the first time that we've personally seen a
major city just completely leveled. The
entire heart of their downtown,
called “The Red Zone”, is fenced and off limits. Everything
is being rebuilt in New Zealand's second biggest
city.
This means that
there really isn't
much to do. It's
hard to even find an open restaurant. We did
enjoy the city's
gorgeous
botanical gardens.
We also poked
around their new shopping mall which is built out of shipping
containers. That's
how they're operating
these days.
Right before we arrived in Christchurch, we had
read very brief reports about the
recent earthquakes in Columbia and Japan. Christchurch is the
last place I wanted to be when
there's
a bunch of Ring
of Fire activity going
on. Sure enough at 11:53am on October 10, a 4.3 earthquake started shaking the walls while we were at the
library. We LOVED New Zealand, but now get
us out of here!!
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