From
Hoi An we backtracked to Da Nang so that we could catch a train further south.
We have gone our entire trip planning things out last minute. We buy train
tickets the day of and never get burned…until we got to Vietnam. We've recently learned
the hard way that even buying tickets four days in advance is not long enough. For
this particular trip, all of the soft-sleeper beds in even the slowest of southbound
trains were sold out. We had no choice but to go with a hard-sleeper, which is
undesirable for several reasons. They are dirtier, more crowded, and the beds
are literally just a metal board with a sheet on top. Because they are
(slightly) cheaper, they are also frequented by locals. We normally love
locals, but not in close sleeping arrangements. They tend to have different
standards when it comes to sleeping hours and social skills.
After
this twilight zone experience, we can certifiably vouch that you never want a
hard-sleeper to happen to you. Our train had already been picking people up by
the time we got on in Da Nang, so most passengers were sound asleep. We
opened the door to our cabin and through the darkness could make out six bodies
in six beds. Our bunk mates were harboring two stowaways in our beds! They
wouldn't even leave…they just looked at us with disgust for waking them up.
After the conductor had to kick them out, we watched as one of the women hacked
and coughed her way down the hallway…where she ended up sleeping the rest of
the night.
We
chalked that up as another “experience” and continued south.
Nha Trang is Vietnam's
top beach destination and had been on our list for the past year. But just a
week before arriving in Vietnam, we started reading more about it. Apparently
November and December are the worst months to come because of the monsoon and
strong currents that hit central Vietnam. Oh no!
Phu
Quoc, an island off the coast of southern Vietnam would be the better option
this time of year, but it's more complicated to get to. At this point in our
trip we are not looking for complicated. We need easy. Skipping Nha Trang would
throw our entire schedule for a loop. Plus the weather had been so unusually
good in Hoi An, that we decided to stick with our original plan. Maybe the
water in Nha Trang wasn't as blue as normal, but it was sunny all three days.
We rented lounge chairs and a thatched-roof
umbrella for a whopping $3 per day...slightly better than the $50 we saw in
France or the $17 we paid in Italy.
Just
like elsewhere in Vietnam there are women trolling the beach with their
shoulder baskets…except in Nha Trang they have whole lobsters in one basket and
a grille in the other. They'll stop at your cabana and cook them right up.
Indeed,
even though we're at the beach, there's no doubt we're still in Vietnam.
One day we needed a dose of culture so we rented a motorbike. We
weren't happy about it because the traffic here is so idiotic, but we
couldn't find a single person renting bicycles. We very cautiously rode off to
see Long Son Pagoda and the Po Nagar Towers.
These Cham alters from the 8th
century were pretty interesting. They had zero ventilation. The inside was so
blackened from incense smoke that we couldn't even make out the ceiling. Super
mystic.
Aside
from those two sites, Nha Trang is not exactly a haven for culture. During the
day we saw more Russians than Vietnamese people. But
as soon as the sun goes down, the locals come out and enjoy their beach. They
(very badly) hit around a volleyball and have big family picnics on the sand.
There are also large groups of teenagers playing Vietnamese versions of ring-around-the-rosie, tug-of-war, and musical chairs.
Maybe we don't know their language, but we can always pick out their
giggles. This painfully innocent flirting is all
set under Nha Trang's gorgeous moonlight.
In Peru, the history, religion, and communal gatherings were all
centered around the sun. But people are afraid of the sun here. It will make
their skin darker, and they really don't like that. In Vietnam, it's all about
the moon.
One night we were headed down to the beach to have a beer picnic
before dinner, and we got called over by a group of 20-something locals.
Normally when this happens it's because they want to practice their English
with us. Not this time. These kids couldn't speak more than three words of
English…and the fourth word they knew was iPhone. They just wanted us to sit
with them as they poured warm cans of beer into a pitcher of ice and passed it
around the circle. I seriously don't know how we sat there for so long. We had
nothing to talk about. Our only thing in common is that we liked beer. I guess
that's enough.
Each night the moon rose out of the ocean and
provided the most perfect backdrop for dinners on the beach. Nha Trang can feel very high end
at times. We have had some fancy, So-Cal-esque dinners that were twice as
expensive as any meal so far in Southeast Asia. But like I said, at this point,
we just need easy.
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