If New Zealand’s East Coast has lapping waves, the West Coast is
wild and rugged. There was one very important reason we dedicated the days and made
the trek west: black-sand beaches. We had never seen such a thing before. It
was a beautiful moment when Vanna pulled up to our first beach and we just
started running.
We spent time at both Mokau and Tongaporutu beaches, where I would describe the color as
jet black. It felt like
walking on powdered ink. It was the softest
lava ever!
The sand is truly incredible for so many reasons. For starters,
it sparkles like diamonds when the sun is shining. It’s magnetic because it
contains so much iron…it literally jumps when you hold a magnet near it. You
can draw designs in it just by barely touching your toe…kind of like how you
draw with your finger on a frosted piece of glass. For two beach kids from
California, this was entirely new territory.
The uniqueness of the West Coast’s black sands is matched by the
little treasures that wash up on shore amongst the driftwood. The most special
are tiny “ram's horn” shells.
What’s weird is that no animal actually lives inside these shells…rather
the shells live inside the animal. A little squid uses the shell as its
internal buoyancy compensator by filling the
chambers with gas, which helps
the squid maintain its head-down position in the water. When the squid dies,
its body disintegrates and the shell floats away – eventually making its way to
the black-sand beaches on the North Island’s West Coast. Once again, pure New
Zealand…so unusual, and yet, completely natural!
We definitely have unfinished business at Tongaporutu. There are
all sorts of natural treasures around here, but sadly, we missed a lot of them. The weather was a miserable wet
mess, and we
completely screwed up the tide schedule. We arrived at high tide when we were
supposed to be there at low tide. All dejected, we met a young mom on the side
of the road who brought us into her
home, looked up the tides for us, and then proceeded to her garage where she
insisted that we take her double kayak out for a spin. She figured that if the
tide was keeping us from walking to what we wanted to see, we could at least
get to see portions of it from her kayak!
We were also able to salvage a short (but incomplete) walk along the Whitecliffs Walkway.
As a consolation prize, we found oh-so-perfect Mike’s Brewery. They have great microbrews including a vanilla coffee porter that
tasted more like a dessert liquor. We had the biggest pizza I’ve ever seen outside of
Cosmos in Boulder, with chicken, avocado, bacon, cranberry, and pumpkin. Yum!
Just south of the black sands is Mount Egmont, a conical volcano that completely dominates the
landscape. It is almost always covered, so we felt really lucky when the clouds
parted ways for about 10 minutes right as we were pulling up.
Also inside Egmont National Park is the Goblin Forest, where the gnarly tree roots
are used as trail steps which lead down to Dawsons Falls.
From the beaches and through more farmland, we wound up in the
“big” city and New Zealand’s capital, Wellington.
If Auckland is known for its volcanoes, Wellington is known for its
earthquakes. This poor city has the Earth’s pacific plate cutting right through
its middle! Even the Prime Minister’s house sits along the fault line.
We visited Wellington on a very rare non-windy day. We had a
lovely time looking out over the city, strolling the quirky shops, and visiting
the Te Papa cultural museum. We even had a good laugh at the wind prepardness signs they have posted around town.
Later on we went back up to the lookout for a nighttime view, and sure enough, a storm completely engulfed the city in about 30 second’s time. We could barely walk back down the staircase to our van without getting blown over. Crazy Wellington! And Crazy North Island! It went far too fast. Can’t we go back and do it all again?
Later on we went back up to the lookout for a nighttime view, and sure enough, a storm completely engulfed the city in about 30 second’s time. We could barely walk back down the staircase to our van without getting blown over. Crazy Wellington! And Crazy North Island! It went far too fast. Can’t we go back and do it all again?
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