Showing posts with label England. Show all posts
Showing posts with label England. Show all posts

August 9, 2012

102 Days In Europe

We have spent the last 3.5 months traveling through the Netherlands, Belgium, England, Ireland, Scotland, Spain, Italy, France, Slovenia, Croatia, and Montenegro. Whew!

ON EUROPE…
 
We have experienced amazing things. The biggest of cities and the smallest of villages. Ancient ruins and modern public art. Great food and drink. Wooden clogs and flamenco heels. Tulips and lavender. Cold and hot. Royal palaces and former war zones. Nature’s wonders. Planes, buses, cars, gondolas, boats, chairlifts, trains, trams and trolleys.

It really is amazing to see firsthand how many different cultures are packed together in such a small area. Basic things like food, dress, language, customs, and personalities change drastically just by crossing an imaginary line. Sometimes – like in Italy – they’re even more drastic within the imaginary lines.

As we progressed through Europe from England to Spain and Italy, a lot of what we learned in South America really came into perspective. For example, dates and names we had heard about while visiting Inca ruins made a lot more sense when we got to Spain. It was a good reminder of how interconnected the world really is.

Europe is advanced – in many ways more so than the United States. But there have still been things that have baffled us. Life’s simple expectations that we have as Americans just do not exist over here…like shower curtains, free tap water, double beds, pre-cut pizzas, washcloths, adequate coin circulation, cold beer, mounted shower heads, free bathrooms, drivers who don’t swerve into oncoming traffic, train tickets that actually show the train number and departure time, and construction sites that are closed to the public. 


It seems that everything in Europe is either under construction or “under restoration”. It’s hard not to find a main attraction that isn’t partly covered in scaffolding. What’s unbelievable is that places still charge full-price to see something even if you can’t see it…and they don’t tell you in advance! In 10 years I guess I’ll have to come back to see that restoration work I paid for.


In honor of the ridiculous number of churches that we’ve passed through, here are our top picks:

Favorite big church #1: Sagrada Familia (Barcelona, Spain)
Favorite big church #2: Siena (Italy)
Favorite small church: Bled (Slovenia)

We have completely lucked out when it comes to being in Europe during epic sporting events. From the moment we landed in Amsterdam all the way through Florence, we enjoyed 3 whole months of European soccer championships and the Euro Cup – played every 4 years on an alternating schedule with the World Cup. We were the worst fair-weather fans of all time…cheering for whichever country we happened to be in at the moment. There was a televised game every night and the restaurants would wheel big screen TVs into the squares for everyone to watch while they dined.


Have you ever wondered which Olympic sports other countries watch on TV? I did, but then it got old after one day. NBC has censored us by blocking all online videos from being shown outside of the US. So at first we were forced to watch what the Croatians deem important….ping pong and handball. Finally we got to some places with satellite TV and saw cool events like triathlon, marathon, tennis, gymnastics, swimming, and track and field (which they call “athletics”). Still, I miss Bob Costas and his crazy toupee.

Have I mentioned that European “beaches” are 99% rocks? Sure I have, but I’ll rant about it again. How can an entire developed continent – which enjoys all of life’s other luxuries – put up with this? I mean honestly, after laying on rocks for 30 minutes it looks like you have a skin disease. Americans, please, get out there and enjoy your sandy beaches. Frolic on them. Roll around in them. Take a nap on them simply because you’re so damn comfortable. I’m not sure we realize how good we have it.


European cars are like micro-machines. 


At any given time, Europeans (more specifically in the Mediterranean) are either holding a cigarette or an ice cream cone.

If European fashion is any sort of precursor to American fashion, then I predict that Birkenstocks will be making a comeback. They were everywhere in Italy. That’s right, the shoe of 1997 is back. This has made me realize that I have now reached the age when I can spot 15-year fashion cycles.


If the French get their way, chic fanny packs are right around the corner. Prepare yourselves.

Europe. It’s a real class act.



ON OUR STATE OF WELL-BEING…

While watching the Opening Ceremonies, I had a startling realization. The TV was on mute, and when I would sporadically glance over at the parade of athletes, I could correctly identify the country within 3 seconds solely by seeing the flag bearer’s face. I realized how much I had broadened my horizons.

Before getting to Europe, fellow travelers had scared us about the quality of the hostels and the lack of Internet. Neither of these turned out to be a problem at all. Our other major worry was the heat. This was a problem, and there were some days I thought I might go crazy. It was particularly hot in Spain, Italy and Croatia, but we powered through.

Trip planning in Europe was so much harder than in South America. In countries like Bolivia, there may only be 3 or 4 cities that 90% of people visit. That makes it easy because it’s fairly obvious what to choose. In Europe everything is so nice that there are endless options. That was difficult for us because (1) we didn’t have time to research everything and (2) we can be a bit indecisive.

While we were still vigilant throughout Europe, it’s been more relaxing to know that we didn’t have a bullseye on our bags. People weren’t waiting to steal our stuff at any moment. We could actually go into the ocean at the same time together, which is something we didn’t feel like we could do in Brazil.

Here’s a funny thing about communicating…you don’t necessarily need to speak a country’s language. You just need to be able to speak their back-up language. We managed to get by in Italy and France and counted our blessings that we are from an English-speaking country. But if you’re from Russia, what do you do? We have no clue.

I have an ice cream problem. I’ve had so much of it that I’ve become dependent. At the end of the day, I crave ice cream like a gainfully employed adult craves a glass of wine.

On a related note, several people have commented about Steve’s weight loss. On our flight to the Aran Islands in Ireland, our plane was so small that they had to weigh us to balance out the plane. This was when Steve discovered that he’s lost thirty pounds since we left San Diego! Everyone’s reaction has been pretty unanimous…nobody thought he had anything to lose. From the sweets of Belgium and the fried food of Great Britain to the tapas of Spain and the carbs of Italy, we have eaten well. This just goes to show what getting out from behind your cubicle desk can do. We walk a lot. Activity…it’s good stuff.

We’ve been traveling for 6 months now and the wear and tear on our equipment is starting to show. Halfway through Italy all of our stuff started to break. The zipper on my backpack spontaneously combusted, my flip flop blew out, and the sole on my running shoe is peeling back. To make matters really worse, the flash on our camera stopped working, our iPhone freezes, the iPhone case cracked, the Kindle case ripped, and the ‘h’, ‘g’, apostrophe and backspace keys are our laptop intermittently decide they need a day off. All of these technology problems are not good news for a pair of flashpackers.

These tribulations just been magnified by the fact that we’ve been moving so quickly the last 2 months…changing cities sometimes almost every night. Lately we have been feeling more stressed out than we think we should be for having a year off.

We’ve made mistakes – especially in Italy – with trains, hotels, tolls, and the Dolomites hiking mishap. We chalk it up to how fast we’ve been traveling. We set a blistering pace for ourselves that we just haven’t been able to keep up with. It’s been a reminder that we really didn’t know what we were doing when we first planned our trip. We wanted to try out different paces to see what we liked. This was a test, and we learned a valuable lesson about what our limits are. Steve said it best, “The last month and a half has been fun but hard. If we were to keep up this pace, it would be hard to have fun.”

In the midst of all this madness, we’ve also had annoyances back at home. We’ve basically had to evict our tenants in San Diego and we were victims of credit card fraud – in the US of all places. Lately we’ve felt like we’ve gone through a gauntlet of bad luck. We completely expected to have some low points on our trip. After all, you can’t have the highs without the lows, right? We are trying to get our balance back in order.

In the exact same way that we felt three months ago when we left South America, we are ready to go but a little scared to leave. We’ve learned that 3 months is about the limit for how much time we can spend in one continent before getting stir crazy. When we arrived in our final city of Kotor in Montenegro and we weren’t marveling, we knew it was time to move on from Europe. This city deserved to be marveled at. At the same time, we have learned the European system. We’re in our comfort zone (as much as that’s possible), and the thought of starting over is daunting and scary.

But then we remind ourselves that we’ve done it before and we can do it again. Hey, it’s springtime in Australia! A fresh start sounds perfect.


May 15, 2012

The Queen’s England

From Belgium we caught a train just across the French border to a town called Calais.


To be honest, we are frightened of France...mostly because we can’t speak the language at all. So imagine our delight as we were walking from the train station and stumbled upon a military ceremony playing – no joke – The Star Spangled Banner. Why thank you, France, for that warm welcome!

Besides their beautiful town hall and a WWII bunker smack in the middle of their park, Calais’ biggest claim to fame is their entry point to the English Channel. We boarded the Spirit of France and motored our way over to England. We officially stepped foot in 3 different countries in a matter of 6 hours.

Taking the ferry allowed us to get the best views of something I’ve always wanted to see: the White Cliffs of Dover.


The cliffs are mostly composed of soft white chalk. I found a piece on the ground (which I may or may not have kept), and I can confirm that it feels and works exactly like school chalk. Fun!

 The cliffs are weathering every year, and less than 2 months ago, a huge section collapsed into the channel.


We got really lucky with the weather…if we had come one day later we wouldn’t have been able to see them at all. We had hoped to spend the next morning playing around on top of the cliffs, but we woke up to a completely socked-in coastline. We counted our blessings, packed up, and moved on. The Cliffs of Dover were a highlight to our time in England.


From Dover we took (no kidding) bus number 007 to London. This was my 4th trip to London in the past 2 years, but it was Steve’s first visit, so we took in all of the classics – Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, Parliament, Trafalgar Square, Hyde Park, Kensington Gardens, Knotting Hill, The Thames, Tower Bridge, and the London Eye.






Steve got an absolute kick out of the Beefeaters’ constant ceremonial stomping about.


We also visited a lot of places that I had never seen before like Covent Gardens, Piccadilly Circus, Horse Guards Parade, St. James Park, The National Gallery, London Bridge, and 
The Tube. 


We spent a lot of time at The Tower of London enjoying the crown jewels, coronation regalia, royal armor, torture devices and ravens.


We also went inside Westminster Abbey. Normally it costs 16 pounds to tour the Abbey, but every night around 5:00 there is an Evensong service where the Westminster Choir sings. I highly recommend Evensong to anyone visiting London. The choir sounded like angels singing in the vaulted Abbey, and we got to walk in the front door – which we heard one Londoner refer to as the “Kate Door”.


While we were in London, we hit our 100th day of traveling.


To celebrate, we decided to take in a show on the West End. So we put on the best outfits we could pull out of our backpacks and headed to the theater! I don’t even think they noticed that I was wearing flip flops and Steve was wearing his trail running shoes. We saw a good show called Jersey Boys, a story about the rise and fall of The Four Seasons.


The thing I love about London is that you don’t have to go hunting to feel like you’re in London…the city is alive all around you in the form of double-decker buses, black cabs, delightful accents, and red telephone booths. 


Everything is also so centrally located. Just on the walk from the bus station to our hostel, we crossed 4 sites off our list.

More than I’ve ever seen before, London is Queen crazy! This summer will be Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee, celebrating her 60 years on the throne. Every time we saw anything unusual around town, our favorite joke would be, “It’s probably for the Jubilee”. There is surprisingly little up around town about the Olympics…Olympics are on hold until the Jubilee is over.


From London we took a bus across the English countryside to Bath. The countryside is always beautiful, but at this time of year, there are fields after fields blanketed in bright yellow flowers. The flowers are a byproduct of what the English call rapeseed, but we would know it as canola for making canola oil.


Bath is a charming town that was originally founded by the Romans in 43 AD as a spa resort. The Romans believed that water from the hot springs in this area had healing powers, so they erected baths around the water sources.

 
The Roman Baths are actually an impressive underground complex of baths, sauna rooms, treatment rooms, drainage infrastructure, and a temple for the goddess Minerva.


In the adjoining Pump Room, we tasted the famous Bath water – believed to have fallen as rain 6,000-10,000 years ago. We both agreed that the water tasted like a penny smells.


We found the Inca ruins in South America impressive, but it’s almost unbelievable to think that the Romans were building their empire 1,400 years before the Incas! Our visit to the baths got us really excited to go to Italy.


Bath is full of tidy and symmetrical Georgian architecture. It’s probably the prettiest cookie-cutter town out there! There is fun shopping, beautiful parks, and a clean and happy atmosphere.


One morning we took a tour to another classic that we’ve been looking forward to: Stonehenge.


Stonehenge is a lot smaller than you would imagine, but it surpassed our expectations. It’s believed that Stonehenge was originally comprised of 171 stones and took 1,500 years to build. Some of the rocks weigh more than 7 elephants and were carried up to 240 miles in 3,000 BC. Imagine that!


Stonehenge is aligned with the midsummer sunrise and midwinter sunset, but its exact purpose still remains a mystery.


We rounded out our English tour in Bristol, where there was a cool suspension bridge and directions to our next stop. 



While we were in England we tried many classic dishes…

Full English Breakfast – this alone could easily hold you over until dinner.


Fish & Chips – this was served with mushy peas, which under normal circumstances we wouldn’t go near. But…we are still excited about anything served on a plate that is green, so we surprised even ourselves when we gobbled up the mushy peas.


Pies – we had some tasty pies at The Raven in Bath. Our favorite was the Jubilee Pie made with sweet corn, coconut mango chutney, and free-range Coronation chicken. Coronation chicken? They really are milking this Diamond Jubilee.


Pasties – this sounds dirty, but these are actually just empanadas. We thought we left these behind in South America!?!


Indian Food – no visit to England would be complete without it.

Sally Lunn Buns – these famous buns have been made in the same historic house in Bath since 1680. How famous? The recipe passes along with the deed to the house. 

 
Bath Bun – Sally Lunn’s big competition. These buns are topped with sugar crystals and raisins. The winner? Sally Lunn.


Tea & Crumpets – we enjoyed our first ever High Tea at The Pump Room in Bath. We sipped Earl Gray with our pinkies out while munching on hot, buttered crumpets. How proper of us.


Sticky Toffee Pudding – not a pudding…more like a sponge cake soaked in toffee sauce and served with ice cream. We had this at a fantastic little underground restaurant in London from the 1600s called Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese.


We wish we could have spent more time in England…it is just so delightful. How could you not love a country with towns like Sandwich and Badminton? And why is it that sayings like “Too-Da-Loo”, “Hunky-Dory”, “Oki-Doki” and “Super Duper” sound cheesy in America, but here they sound so charming? It’s probably because of the Jubilee.